What should you pay attention to when transplanting seedlings?

I. Optimal Transplanting Time (Crucial for Significantly Increasing Survival Rates)

Deciduous Trees / Shrubs: From the time leaves drop in autumn until buds begin to sprout in spring (the dormant period is best); low temperatures minimize transpiration, allowing the root system to recover quickly.

Evergreen Saplings (Pines, Osmanthus, Hollies, etc.): Early spring before budding begins, or late autumn after temperatures have dropped; avoid the high heat of mid-summer.

Prohibited Periods: Do not transplant during the high heat of summer noons, periods of frozen soil in winter, or when the saplings are in the midst of vigorous flowering and fruiting.

II. Key Points for Lifting and Excavating Saplings

1. Excavating the Root Ball (Mandatory for large evergreens and valuable saplings)

Root Ball Diameter: 6 to 10 times the tree's Diameter at Breast Height (DBH); for shrubs, use 1/3 of the crown spread. The root ball height should be 2/3 of its diameter.

Root Ball Integrity: Avoid letting the soil crumble during excavation; tightly wrap the root ball with straw rope or non-woven fabric to prevent it from breaking apart and damaging the roots during transport.

2. Lifting Bare-Root Saplings (Small deciduous saplings and nursery seedlings)

Preserve the fibrous roots while minimizing damage to the main roots; retain a small amount of the original soil around the roots.

Immediately dip the roots into a mud slurry after lifting to maintain moisture, preventing the root system from drying out due to wind and sun exposure.

3. Pruning Damaged Roots

Trim any damaged, split, or decayed roots cleanly back to the healthy tissue to facilitate rooting and healing; ensure the bark layer is not torn or shredded.

III. Sapling Pruning (To Reduce Water Evaporation and Balance Root-to-Crown Ratio)

Above-Ground Parts

Large Trees: Thin out overly dense branches, inward-growing branches, and dead or diseased branches; shorten overly long or spindly branches. For valuable saplings, preserve the structural framework and perform only light pruning.

Flowering Shrubs: Remove tender new shoots from the current year, as well as spent flowers.

Evergreen Trees: Remove approximately half of the older leaves to reduce transpiration.

Wound Treatment: Apply a wound sealant to the cut surfaces of thick branches and trunks to prevent moisture loss and bacterial infection.

IV. Maintaining Moisture During Sapling Transport

Bare-Root Saplings: Wrap the roots in damp straw mats or plastic bags; keep the saplings shaded throughout the entire journey and strictly avoid direct sun exposure. Balled-and-Burlapped (B&B) Stock: Spray the outer layer of the root ball with water to maintain moisture, then cover with a tarp to prevent wind-induced drying and cracking.

Transport Duration: Ideally, lift the seedlings and plant them on the same day. For long-distance transport, replenish moisture periodically; if seedlings are left unplanted for extended periods, they are highly susceptible to drying out and dying.

V. Planting Pit Excavation and Base Fertilization

Pit Dimensions: The width and depth of the tree pit should be 30–50 cm larger than the root ball or root system. The pit walls must be vertical, and the bottom should be loosened.

Soil Improvement:

Clay Soil: Mix in river sand and leaf mold to improve aeration.

Sandy Soil: Add well-composted organic fertilizer and garden soil to enhance water retention.

Saline-Alkaline Soil: Lay a layer of gravel at the bottom to create a salt barrier, and replace the existing soil with suitable planting soil.

Base Fertilizer Precautions: Lay a thin layer of regular soil at the bottom of the pit to isolate any uncomposted raw fertilizers (raw fertilizers, such as fresh chicken or sheep manure, can "burn" the roots). Use only well-composted organic fertilizer combined with a small amount of slow-release fertilizer.

Drainage Treatment: For low-lying areas prone to water accumulation, lay a 10 cm layer of gravel or expanded clay aggregate at the bottom of the pit to serve as a drainage layer and prevent root rot.

VI. Key Steps for Planting and Establishment

Positioning the Seedling: Maintain the seedling's original orientation relative to the sun (the original "sunny side") and ensure the trunk remains vertical and free of any lean.

Planting Depth (Of Paramount Importance):

B&B Stock: The top surface of the root ball should be level with the original soil line. Deep planting is strictly prohibited (planting too deeply can suffocate the roots and cause bark rot).

Bare-Root Stock: The root collar (the junction between the roots and the stem) should be level with the ground surface.

Backfilling the Soil:

Fill the pit in layers, gently tamping down each layer to ensure no air pockets remain (air pockets trap gas, preventing the roots from absorbing water).

Support and Stabilization:

For larger trees (with a trunk diameter of 5 cm or more), install a triangular or quadrangular support frame immediately after planting. Place soft padding between the frame and the trunk to prevent wind-induced swaying from tearing the newly established roots.

VII. Watering for Root Establishment (The First Critical Hurdle for Survival)

Immediately after planting is complete, apply a thorough "establishment watering." Allow the water to infiltrate slowly so that the soil settles firmly around the roots and any trapped air is expelled.

Repeat this thorough watering every 2–3 days. Promptly add more soil to cover any exposed root ball surfaces or gaps that may appear in the soil.

Surface Mulching: Cover the soil surface with straw, bark mulch, or plastic sheeting to lock in moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weed growth. VIII. Post-Transplant Care and Management

Watering Control

Initial Stage: Keep the soil slightly moist, avoiding water accumulation; ensure timely drainage during the rainy season.

High Summer Temperatures: Water in the early morning or late evening; strictly avoid watering at noon. Mist the foliage to increase humidity.

Before Winter: Apply a final, deep watering to provide frost protection and prepare the soil for freezing.

Sun and Cold Protection

Large Trees (Summer): Wrap tree trunks with moisturizing cotton or shade netting to prevent sunburn and bark cracking.

Newly Planted Saplings (Winter): Apply a whitewash coating to the trunks and wrap them with straw ropes for frost protection.

No Fertilization During the Establishment Period

Avoid applying concentrated fertilizers for 1–2 months after transplanting. Once new leaves begin to sprout, apply a small amount of diluted rooting fertilizer. In the autumn, supplement with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to enhance cold resistance.

Pest and Disease Control

Promptly remove dead branches and fallen leaves. Upon detecting root rot, aphids, or longhorn beetles, apply appropriate pesticides immediately. If water accumulation around the roots leads to rot, loosen the soil and ensure proper drainage without delay.

Rooting Assistance

During planting, apply a rooting agent via irrigation to stimulate the growth of new feeder roots and shorten the plant's establishment period.

IX. Special Considerations for Specific Types of Nursery Stock

Transplanting Large Trees: Pre-treat roots (dig a circular trench to sever roots six months prior to transplanting to stimulate feeder root growth); use a crane to lift and protect the root ball during transport; and use IV bags to infuse the trunk with nutrient solutions.

Fruit Trees: Prune damaged roots before permanent planting; perform structural pruning of the trunk and branches to ensure successful flowering and fruiting in the following year.

Rare Evergreen Species: Maintain continuous protection of the root ball throughout the process; perform significant thinning of the foliage; and erect a shade structure to aid in the plant's establishment.